Well, today turned into a surprise zero! I woke up intending to hike out, but a second day of stormy weather and some surprise tiredness (not to mention an impromptu poker game at the hostel) motivated me to hang out. Tomorrow, it's time to climb the Bigelows, some of the last major mountains before Katahdin. It's a 70 mile stretch to Monson, ME, the very last trail town. Out of Monson it's straight into the 100 mile wilderness, arguably the most uncivilized portion of the trail. the Wilderness will drop me off at Abol Bridge, right at the base of Big K. Then it's up the mountain and... that's it.
I've been having a very hard time contemplating the fact that what remains of this adventure can be summed up in such a concise paragraph. The defining characteristic of the Trail experience for me has been its length... 2000 miles and 6 months is nothing if not a prolonged experience. I cannot believe that in just 2 weeks, if all goes well, I will be standing on Katahdin... no more white blazes to follow.
I have been hiking largely solo for the past several weeks, seeing my friends mostly when I get off the trail (like a GREAT 2 day adventure to the "Common Ground Fair" in Unity, Maine with Tater and Candybar and Blackfoot and Tater's SUPER AWESOME GENEROUS family! Thanks a million Mr. and Mrs. Tater!) The solo hiking has been a distinct contrast from the "buddy hiking" that took up a large chunk of my trip. I have gone whole days without seeing another person, and even without uttering a word aloud. I look forward to the solace of the Wilderness, 100 miles away from civilization, as a last chance to reflect and listen very closely to what the Trail is trying to tell me.
The week in the woods will also be an opportunity to consider what the best way to express the trail to the rest of the world. I've struggled with questions about the trail, it's so unlike anything else that it defies regular comparisons. I'm glad I still have 180 miles to think about it!
Can't wait to see you all
Rob
Friday, September 28, 2007
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Hey everyone!
I am writing this time from, as you may have deduced, THE GREAT STATE OF MAINE! I am ecstatic to be here, after spending the last 5+ months yearning to cross into this still largely wild and untarnished green state. On the trail, I am at Andover. However, that does not tell the whole tale: My buddies Jake and Grizzle rented a car after Jake blew his knees out, and have been touring up and down the east coast visiting old friends. This morning they picked me up, tossed me in their Kia and carried me up to Stratton, Maine to visit some MORE old buddies.
The trail in the last few hundred miles has been spectacular and rugged. The Whites provided some of the most difficult and extreme terrain of the trail so far, and the pace has not slacked since then: Southern Maine has been just as difficult if not more so! Some sections have been especially punishing, like the incredible Mahoosuc Notch and Arm, a combination rock scramble and climb of 5 miles that took an entire day.
Time is short, dinner calls, but I promise to put up more details as soon as I can! Can't wait to see you all, and thanks again to Mom for putting up such great posts!
Rob
I am writing this time from, as you may have deduced, THE GREAT STATE OF MAINE! I am ecstatic to be here, after spending the last 5+ months yearning to cross into this still largely wild and untarnished green state. On the trail, I am at Andover. However, that does not tell the whole tale: My buddies Jake and Grizzle rented a car after Jake blew his knees out, and have been touring up and down the east coast visiting old friends. This morning they picked me up, tossed me in their Kia and carried me up to Stratton, Maine to visit some MORE old buddies.
The trail in the last few hundred miles has been spectacular and rugged. The Whites provided some of the most difficult and extreme terrain of the trail so far, and the pace has not slacked since then: Southern Maine has been just as difficult if not more so! Some sections have been especially punishing, like the incredible Mahoosuc Notch and Arm, a combination rock scramble and climb of 5 miles that took an entire day.
Time is short, dinner calls, but I promise to put up more details as soon as I can! Can't wait to see you all, and thanks again to Mom for putting up such great posts!
Rob
Monday, September 17, 2007
Maine at last!
Text message received Monday, September 17, 2:10 PM: "At last! One more state left!" Go, Bigby!!
Friday, September 14, 2007
Through the Whites!
Hi Everyone,
Lots of photos on this post! We document Dad K's trip through the Whites (including a scary brush with the famously bad weather of the Presidentials,) a change in Rob's 'do, and the gorgeous scenery in Vermont and New Hampshire. First, pretty Little Rock Pond in VT.
Who says only gregarious Southerners are capable of Trail Magic?
Lots of cold sodas for everyone!
And finally (above), the beautiful GREEN Mountains, on the Long Trail in VT (which runs with the AT in VT.) Rob very much liked the Vermont experience.
Lots of photos on this post! We document Dad K's trip through the Whites (including a scary brush with the famously bad weather of the Presidentials,) a change in Rob's 'do, and the gorgeous scenery in Vermont and New Hampshire. First, pretty Little Rock Pond in VT.
Who says only gregarious Southerners are capable of Trail Magic?
Lots of cold sodas for everyone!
And finally (above), the beautiful GREEN Mountains, on the Long Trail in VT (which runs with the AT in VT.) Rob very much liked the Vermont experience.Below, Bigby decides it's time for a haircut.
And a new man emerges from beneath the mop! This 'do is much easier to maintain on the Trail.
One doesn't always have to rough it on the Long Trail! (Softies like MomK can contemplate hiking inn-to-inn.)
When Rob crosses this bridge, he'll be in New Hampshire!
Next-to-last state line on the Trail.
In Hanover, Rob runs into some old friends - hiking buddies (Byte Code and Churchmouse) from the Southern half!
Here, on September 2, the White Mountains at last.
Rob was delighted to reach the top of Mt. Moosilauke, and the first alpine biome of the AT. "Above treeline at last! I couldn't be happier!"
Above, the craggy White Mountains stretch out forever. Below, a mountain sunrise.
Dad K hits the trail again! Dave drove up to Joe Dodge Lodge, Pinkham Notch, on Thursday Sept. 6 (Happy Birthday Sister Jess!.) MomK called him en route with the news he'd left the rainfly at home. (I was wrong, actually - the fly I found in the hiker staging area (AKA dining room) came from another tent.) Dave decided to ditch the tent, 6 less pounds to carry; and grabbed the hiker shuttle to Franconia on Friday morning, where he and Rob met up. Enjoy the good weather, guys! Won't last long!
After spending the first night 'under the stars' (i.e., no tent for Dad), they used the hut system for the remaining nights. Hikers can often "work for stay" - some huts are more accommodating to thru hikers than others...scene below is from Zealand Falls. Thru hikers on the floor; on the deck; everywhere. (Regular paying guests fork over big $$ to stay here - up to $87/night.) Here, Dave (top tier, left) learns a new card game.
"Work for Stay" includes doing the dishes (below) or, in Lake of the Clouds, washing down an entire bunkroom with soapy water then bleach, preparing to close up for winter.
In exchange, hikers get a floor to sleep on, out of the weather; and LOTS of food.
And a new man emerges from beneath the mop! This 'do is much easier to maintain on the Trail.
One doesn't always have to rough it on the Long Trail! (Softies like MomK can contemplate hiking inn-to-inn.)
When Rob crosses this bridge, he'll be in New Hampshire!
Next-to-last state line on the Trail.
In Hanover, Rob runs into some old friends - hiking buddies (Byte Code and Churchmouse) from the Southern half!
Here, on September 2, the White Mountains at last.
Rob was delighted to reach the top of Mt. Moosilauke, and the first alpine biome of the AT. "Above treeline at last! I couldn't be happier!"
Above, the craggy White Mountains stretch out forever. Below, a mountain sunrise.
Dad K hits the trail again! Dave drove up to Joe Dodge Lodge, Pinkham Notch, on Thursday Sept. 6 (Happy Birthday Sister Jess!.) MomK called him en route with the news he'd left the rainfly at home. (I was wrong, actually - the fly I found in the hiker staging area (AKA dining room) came from another tent.) Dave decided to ditch the tent, 6 less pounds to carry; and grabbed the hiker shuttle to Franconia on Friday morning, where he and Rob met up. Enjoy the good weather, guys! Won't last long!
After spending the first night 'under the stars' (i.e., no tent for Dad), they used the hut system for the remaining nights. Hikers can often "work for stay" - some huts are more accommodating to thru hikers than others...scene below is from Zealand Falls. Thru hikers on the floor; on the deck; everywhere. (Regular paying guests fork over big $$ to stay here - up to $87/night.) Here, Dave (top tier, left) learns a new card game.
"Work for Stay" includes doing the dishes (below) or, in Lake of the Clouds, washing down an entire bunkroom with soapy water then bleach, preparing to close up for winter.
In exchange, hikers get a floor to sleep on, out of the weather; and LOTS of food.Below, see the weather begin to change - rain most of the six days they were together.
And impressive fog. Good thing Bigby and DadK have seen those beautiful ridgetop views before...
Foreshadowing: the familiar yellow sign that warns of Mt. Washington's weather. The sign reads: "STOP: The area ahead has the worst weather in America. Many have died there from exposure, even in the summer. Turn back now if the weather is bad."
Dave had first-hand experience with this weather when, the day after this photo was taken, they went over the summit of the pointy mountain above. The weather was finally clearing; rain had stopped. I'd been monitoring the Mt. Washington observatory weather conditions, and was glad to see that - thought they'd finally have a clear day for their last day above treeline. Didn't notice the wind forecast - "gusts of over 70 mph" - they didn't take note of it either and set off to descend back to Pinkham Notch - in totally exposed surroundings. 
Here, safe below at last!
After this eventful day, Bigby and DadK hit a motel and a nice restaurant for dinner. Next morning, Dad K waved good bye to Rob, who sets off for Maine. Happy Trails! We all miss you!
And impressive fog. Good thing Bigby and DadK have seen those beautiful ridgetop views before...
Foreshadowing: the familiar yellow sign that warns of Mt. Washington's weather. The sign reads: "STOP: The area ahead has the worst weather in America. Many have died there from exposure, even in the summer. Turn back now if the weather is bad."
Dave had first-hand experience with this weather when, the day after this photo was taken, they went over the summit of the pointy mountain above. The weather was finally clearing; rain had stopped. I'd been monitoring the Mt. Washington observatory weather conditions, and was glad to see that - thought they'd finally have a clear day for their last day above treeline. Didn't notice the wind forecast - "gusts of over 70 mph" - they didn't take note of it either and set off to descend back to Pinkham Notch - in totally exposed surroundings. One of those "gusts" literally blew Dave over - and we can only be thankful that he smacked his shin a good one, not his skull. Other scenarios that didn't happen include blowing off the mountain altogether, breaking a bone, or even sustaining a bad sprain! The first aid kit helped, though by the time he got medical attention the next day it was too late for the stitches he could have qualified for. Whew!
Here, safe below at last!
After this eventful day, Bigby and DadK hit a motel and a nice restaurant for dinner. Next morning, Dad K waved good bye to Rob, who sets off for Maine. Happy Trails! We all miss you!
Thursday, September 6, 2007
Bigby finally gets above treeline
Rob sent this photo from atop Mount Moosilauke, his first White Mountain on the AT. He was happy to be "above treeline at last!" His Dad will join him tomorrow, though without the rainfly to his tent. I'm sure they will improvise and I hope they have a wonderful trip!
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Hello friends!
Geeze, looking back through the blog and seeing that I haven't posted a word since Wingdale! Seems like a long time ago. Writing this time from the "Hikers Welcome" hostel in Glencliff, NH. I am ducking in for a quick lunch of microwave pizzas and soda before fording a river and starting the first of the Whites! The first mountain is Moosilauke, which is an imposing 3700 vertical foot climb that I will take on immediately after leaving this lovely hostel. Moosilauke will also be my first foray above treeline on the AT, the imaginary boundary of altitude above which no full size trees can grow. I am excited to get into the beautiful and unique alpine ecosystem that can only be found in the high peaks of the Northeast.
It's surprising that these truly immense peaks will not be the highest point on the trail, elevation-wise. That honor is reserved for Clingman's Dome, a comparatively tame mountain in the Smokeys.
Even though I still have a long way to go (Just under 400 miles), I can't help but feel that this is finally the home stretch. As the hostel owner here said, we've been through the appetizer (the mountains of North Georgia and the Smokeys), the main course (everything from there to here), and we're just now getting into the dessert. The spectacular wilderness ahead is what I've been waiting for this whole trip, and without question some of the premier backpacking trails in the nation, if not the planet.
At the same time, I am starting to get eager, if a bit apprehensive, about the return to civilization that is now just a month away. I cannot wait to see my family and friends, but I have a hard time imagining what it will be like to live normally after over half a year of such a uniquely free and distinctly different lifestyle. For now, my solution is to just enjoy the miles and nights I have left as much as possible, and listen quietly to whatever lessons the next 400 miles have to teach me.
I can't wait to see you all, and to take an extended tour of visits as soon as I get home in early to mid October. I plan on doing a lot of couch surfing for about a month, so let me know if you have room for a wandering hiker!
Happy trails,
Rob
Bigby
Geeze, looking back through the blog and seeing that I haven't posted a word since Wingdale! Seems like a long time ago. Writing this time from the "Hikers Welcome" hostel in Glencliff, NH. I am ducking in for a quick lunch of microwave pizzas and soda before fording a river and starting the first of the Whites! The first mountain is Moosilauke, which is an imposing 3700 vertical foot climb that I will take on immediately after leaving this lovely hostel. Moosilauke will also be my first foray above treeline on the AT, the imaginary boundary of altitude above which no full size trees can grow. I am excited to get into the beautiful and unique alpine ecosystem that can only be found in the high peaks of the Northeast.
It's surprising that these truly immense peaks will not be the highest point on the trail, elevation-wise. That honor is reserved for Clingman's Dome, a comparatively tame mountain in the Smokeys.
Even though I still have a long way to go (Just under 400 miles), I can't help but feel that this is finally the home stretch. As the hostel owner here said, we've been through the appetizer (the mountains of North Georgia and the Smokeys), the main course (everything from there to here), and we're just now getting into the dessert. The spectacular wilderness ahead is what I've been waiting for this whole trip, and without question some of the premier backpacking trails in the nation, if not the planet.
At the same time, I am starting to get eager, if a bit apprehensive, about the return to civilization that is now just a month away. I cannot wait to see my family and friends, but I have a hard time imagining what it will be like to live normally after over half a year of such a uniquely free and distinctly different lifestyle. For now, my solution is to just enjoy the miles and nights I have left as much as possible, and listen quietly to whatever lessons the next 400 miles have to teach me.
I can't wait to see you all, and to take an extended tour of visits as soon as I get home in early to mid October. I plan on doing a lot of couch surfing for about a month, so let me know if you have room for a wandering hiker!
Happy trails,
Rob
Bigby
Monday, September 3, 2007
White Mountain Bound
Rob has crossed his next-to-last state line - arriving in Hanover NH yesterday (Sept. 2.) He has gone ahead of some of his hiking buddies and is hiking long days to make it to the White Mountains for Friday morning, when Dad K will once again take a hike! Dave will be loaded with cold weather supplies and food for the gorgeous 50 mile ridge walk in the Whites. He'll travel to Pinkham Notch on Thursday evening and stay at the Joe Dodge Lodge next to the visitor center at the foot of Mt. Washington. Friday morning he'll take the hiker shuttle over to the Liberty Springs trailhead in Franconia, and walk back to Pinkham Notch via the scenic route with "Bigby". We'll post photos when Dave returns!
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