It's over.

Sorry it has taken me so long to post anything, I'd be surprised if anyone has the patience to keep checking a non-updated blog, but here I am regardless. To be honest, I kept putting off writing a post because I have been at a loss for words. Since I returned, I have talked to a bunch of people who ask me how the Trail was, and I find myself unable to answer them. It was such a, well, BIG experience! Six and a half months, highs, lows, in-betweens, boring days, exhilarating days, 25 milers and zeros.

Another reason I have had trouble coming to some kind of grand conclusion is the awkward way my hike ended, in a way. I was extremely fortunate to have my dad and Mr. Bush, a family friend and father of one of my closest friends from home, join me for the spectacular ascent of Katahdin. It was a surreal experience, and one of the most magnificent mountains of the entire trek. Afterwards, we met up with Jake (!!!) at the base of the mountain, and went to the Bush's summer house near Bangor and drove home from there. Once home, I took a day just recovering physically, and then jumped right back in to working on the house restoration. I felt bad asking for more time to recover/adjust, seeing as I was coming back from a 6.5 month vacation, and underestimated how unprepared I was.

Luckily, and thanks to my unbelievable friends, I got to see off my trail experience more properly. After a re-energizing visit to Jared at Fairfield, I was visited by Grizzle on his way back to Georgia. Grizz stayed in town for a few days, helping at the house and hanging out for baseball games. After that, Jake, Candybar and Tater all arrived for one last night in the basement and one last "High school hangout". We road-tripped into Boston, where we watched Game 1 of the World Series from a bar RIGHT outside of Fenway, and stayed with the always amazing Tobin. This morning, we drove back to Gbury, parting ways with Jake as he returned to Philly, and drove into New Haven to visit Tater's friends at Yale and watch Game 2.

...And then we parted ways, as I drove back home and Tater and Candybar stayed in New Haven, from whence they will travel back to their respective homes.

Saying goodbye to those guys gave the trip a sense of closure, and made the drive home in the wee hours of the night surprisingly emotional. After spending months bonding with hikers in the ridiculously close contact we keep, getting to know them like family, it is finally to a point where I don't know when I will see them again.

I realized that saying goodbye to Tate, CB, Grizz, Jake and everyone else was at LEAST as hard as saying goodbye to the woods that had become home over the summer. A thru hike, at least for me, does not happen in a vacuum. It is not just you and the Trail. Instead, the AT is a venue for an adventure. It is the backdrop, the unwavering constant in a lifestyle that is otherwise unpredictable and sometimes absurd. You never know how far you'll go, how you'll get there, who you'll be with, what will happen, but you do know that you will keep hiking North, keep following the white blazes until they stop. When they do stop, dramatically and suddenly atop Katahdin, I came to a flash realization that hiking to this summit was not the point. If I had wanted to get to Baxter Peak so badly, I would have driven to Millinocket and day hiked up!

No, the uber-simplistic and linear goal of hiking from Georgia to Maine is a concrete anchor to which thru hikers can tie their own goals or desires. We don't hit the trail just to walk in the woods, we do it to learn something about ourselves, or our world, or to find a lost spark, or any number of unique reasons.

So when you ask me how the trail was, don't think I'm being a jerk or blowing you off if I have a hard time answering. I'm not trying to make it into something it isn't: It's not the most extreme adventure, or the most difficult, or anything like that. I am more impressed by people who successfully live abroad, or better tackle the challenges of everyday life, than by the achievement of thru-hiking. But even if it isn't the greatest accomplishment, it is something tremendously special. It is a chance to live a drastically more simple life, to enjoy the simple silence of the world's surviving wild places, a six month service in the vast green cathedral we call home.

To all my brothers and sisters from the trail: thank you so much. You were the alpha and omega of my trail experience, and I'll cherish the pictures and memories of you more than you know. To the friends and family without whom I couldn't have made the first step, especially to Mom for providing ridiculous amounts of home support, and Dad for taking time from his unbelievably hectic schedule to come out to the woods, a million thanks.

The final summit - 11:30 AM this morning

On his way to the summit!

Received this photo by phone this morning - Rob's almost there! Looks like a pretty good (but chilly) day.

Katahdin in Sight

I just waved goodbye to Dave (Dad K) who is setting off to Maine with Bob Bush (dad of Bigby's good friend and fellow Eagle Scout Dan Bush.) They will drive up to the Bush family's camp in Maine, about an hour from Baxter State Park. Then tomorrow, they will make the short (hour or so) hop over to a campground in the Park, and wait for Rob to join them for his last night on the Trail. I've sent beef stew and goodies to prepare them for their four-mile ascent, scheduled for Saturday, just two days before the Park closes for the winter! The weather prediction, which had been kind of dismal, has just brightened up for Saturday - to "partly cloudy" - a big improvement over the showers that had been predicted all week.

I'd sent off my last big resupply about two weeks ago - to prepare Rob for the "Hundred Mile Wilderness". He received 16 pounds of food - enough for 8 or 9 days - see below!

Connie, Postmaster-Relief at the East Glastonbury P.O., has overseen many of the supply boxes I've sent over the past six months. Thanks, Connie!

Rob sent this photo with the message "Katahdin in sight" from about 200 miles out. He hasn't seen it much since - due to cloudy weather whenever he was up high.Haven't been able to hear too much from Rob during his transit of the 100 miles of wilderness!

Enjoy your last hours on the Trail, Rob! Can't wait to have you home - (expecting them on Sunday) and hear about all your adventures. Wish I were there too! Love, Mom (Mom K)

PS: A couple hours after I posted this I got a phone call from Rob - heading out of Millinocket, ME. He'd made it to Abol Bridge, a few miles out of Baxter State Park. Tomorrow he'll have a 10 mile hike to the Katahdin Stream campground. Then, Katahdin. So, he now has 15 miles left on his >2000 mile journey.

Leaving Monson, ME this morning to enter the 100 mile wilderness.

See you on the other side!

Bigby

Well, today turned into a surprise zero! I woke up intending to hike out, but a second day of stormy weather and some surprise tiredness (not to mention an impromptu poker game at the hostel) motivated me to hang out. Tomorrow, it's time to climb the Bigelows, some of the last major mountains before Katahdin. It's a 70 mile stretch to Monson, ME, the very last trail town. Out of Monson it's straight into the 100 mile wilderness, arguably the most uncivilized portion of the trail. the Wilderness will drop me off at Abol Bridge, right at the base of Big K. Then it's up the mountain and... that's it.

I've been having a very hard time contemplating the fact that what remains of this adventure can be summed up in such a concise paragraph. The defining characteristic of the Trail experience for me has been its length... 2000 miles and 6 months is nothing if not a prolonged experience. I cannot believe that in just 2 weeks, if all goes well, I will be standing on Katahdin... no more white blazes to follow.

I have been hiking largely solo for the past several weeks, seeing my friends mostly when I get off the trail (like a GREAT 2 day adventure to the "Common Ground Fair" in Unity, Maine with Tater and Candybar and Blackfoot and Tater's SUPER AWESOME GENEROUS family! Thanks a million Mr. and Mrs. Tater!) The solo hiking has been a distinct contrast from the "buddy hiking" that took up a large chunk of my trip. I have gone whole days without seeing another person, and even without uttering a word aloud. I look forward to the solace of the Wilderness, 100 miles away from civilization, as a last chance to reflect and listen very closely to what the Trail is trying to tell me.

The week in the woods will also be an opportunity to consider what the best way to express the trail to the rest of the world. I've struggled with questions about the trail, it's so unlike anything else that it defies regular comparisons. I'm glad I still have 180 miles to think about it!

Can't wait to see you all
Rob

Hey everyone!
I am writing this time from, as you may have deduced, THE GREAT STATE OF MAINE! I am ecstatic to be here, after spending the last 5+ months yearning to cross into this still largely wild and untarnished green state. On the trail, I am at Andover. However, that does not tell the whole tale: My buddies Jake and Grizzle rented a car after Jake blew his knees out, and have been touring up and down the east coast visiting old friends. This morning they picked me up, tossed me in their Kia and carried me up to Stratton, Maine to visit some MORE old buddies.

The trail in the last few hundred miles has been spectacular and rugged. The Whites provided some of the most difficult and extreme terrain of the trail so far, and the pace has not slacked since then: Southern Maine has been just as difficult if not more so! Some sections have been especially punishing, like the incredible Mahoosuc Notch and Arm, a combination rock scramble and climb of 5 miles that took an entire day.

Time is short, dinner calls, but I promise to put up more details as soon as I can! Can't wait to see you all, and thanks again to Mom for putting up such great posts!

Rob

Maine at last!

Text message received Monday, September 17, 2:10 PM: "At last! One more state left!" Go, Bigby!!

Through the Whites!

Hi Everyone,

Lots of photos on this post! We document Dad K's trip through the Whites (including a scary brush with the famously bad weather of the Presidentials,) a change in Rob's 'do, and the gorgeous scenery in Vermont and New Hampshire. First, pretty Little Rock Pond in VT.
Who says only gregarious Southerners are capable of Trail Magic?
Lots of cold sodas for everyone!

And finally (above), the beautiful GREEN Mountains, on the Long Trail in VT (which runs with the AT in VT.) Rob very much liked the Vermont experience.

Below, Bigby decides it's time for a haircut.

And a new man emerges from beneath the mop! This 'do is much easier to maintain on the Trail.
One doesn't always have to rough it on the Long Trail! (Softies like MomK can contemplate hiking inn-to-inn.)

When Rob crosses this bridge, he'll be in New Hampshire!
Next-to-last state line on the Trail.
In Hanover, Rob runs into some old friends - hiking buddies (Byte Code and Churchmouse) from the Southern half!


Here, on September 2, the White Mountains at last.

Rob was delighted to reach the top of Mt. Moosilauke, and the first alpine biome of the AT. "Above treeline at last! I couldn't be happier!"

Above, the craggy White Mountains stretch out forever. Below, a mountain sunrise.

Dad K hits the trail again! Dave drove up to Joe Dodge Lodge, Pinkham Notch, on Thursday Sept. 6 (Happy Birthday Sister Jess!.) MomK called him en route with the news he'd left the rainfly at home. (I was wrong, actually - the fly I found in the hiker staging area (AKA dining room) came from another tent.) Dave decided to ditch the tent, 6 less pounds to carry; and grabbed the hiker shuttle to Franconia on Friday morning, where he and Rob met up. Enjoy the good weather, guys! Won't last long!

After spending the first night 'under the stars' (i.e., no tent for Dad), they used the hut system for the remaining nights. Hikers can often "work for stay" - some huts are more accommodating to thru hikers than others...scene below is from Zealand Falls. Thru hikers on the floor; on the deck; everywhere. (Regular paying guests fork over big $$ to stay here - up to $87/night.) Here, Dave (top tier, left) learns a new card game.
"Work for Stay" includes doing the dishes (below) or, in Lake of the Clouds, washing down an entire bunkroom with soapy water then bleach, preparing to close up for winter.
In exchange, hikers get a floor to sleep on, out of the weather; and LOTS of food.

Below, see the weather begin to change - rain most of the six days they were together.
And impressive fog. Good thing Bigby and DadK have seen those beautiful ridgetop views before...
Foreshadowing: the familiar yellow sign that warns of Mt. Washington's weather. The sign reads: "STOP: The area ahead has the worst weather in America. Many have died there from exposure, even in the summer. Turn back now if the weather is bad."

Dave had first-hand experience with this weather when, the day after this photo was taken, they went over the summit of the pointy mountain above. The weather was finally clearing; rain had stopped. I'd been monitoring the Mt. Washington observatory weather conditions, and was glad to see that - thought they'd finally have a clear day for their last day above treeline. Didn't notice the wind forecast - "gusts of over 70 mph" - they didn't take note of it either and set off to descend back to Pinkham Notch - in totally exposed surroundings.

One of those "gusts" literally blew Dave over - and we can only be thankful that he smacked his shin a good one, not his skull. Other scenarios that didn't happen include blowing off the mountain altogether, breaking a bone, or even sustaining a bad sprain! The first aid kit helped, though by the time he got medical attention the next day it was too late for the stitches he could have qualified for. Whew!

Here, safe below at last!
After this eventful day, Bigby and DadK hit a motel and a nice restaurant for dinner. Next morning, Dad K waved good bye to Rob, who sets off for Maine. Happy Trails! We all miss you!

Bigby finally gets above treeline

Rob sent this photo from atop Mount Moosilauke, his first White Mountain on the AT. He was happy to be "above treeline at last!" His Dad will join him tomorrow, though without the rainfly to his tent. I'm sure they will improvise and I hope they have a wonderful trip!

Hello friends!

Geeze, looking back through the blog and seeing that I haven't posted a word since Wingdale! Seems like a long time ago. Writing this time from the "Hikers Welcome" hostel in Glencliff, NH. I am ducking in for a quick lunch of microwave pizzas and soda before fording a river and starting the first of the Whites! The first mountain is Moosilauke, which is an imposing 3700 vertical foot climb that I will take on immediately after leaving this lovely hostel. Moosilauke will also be my first foray above treeline on the AT, the imaginary boundary of altitude above which no full size trees can grow. I am excited to get into the beautiful and unique alpine ecosystem that can only be found in the high peaks of the Northeast.

It's surprising that these truly immense peaks will not be the highest point on the trail, elevation-wise. That honor is reserved for Clingman's Dome, a comparatively tame mountain in the Smokeys.

Even though I still have a long way to go (Just under 400 miles), I can't help but feel that this is finally the home stretch. As the hostel owner here said, we've been through the appetizer (the mountains of North Georgia and the Smokeys), the main course (everything from there to here), and we're just now getting into the dessert. The spectacular wilderness ahead is what I've been waiting for this whole trip, and without question some of the premier backpacking trails in the nation, if not the planet.

At the same time, I am starting to get eager, if a bit apprehensive, about the return to civilization that is now just a month away. I cannot wait to see my family and friends, but I have a hard time imagining what it will be like to live normally after over half a year of such a uniquely free and distinctly different lifestyle. For now, my solution is to just enjoy the miles and nights I have left as much as possible, and listen quietly to whatever lessons the next 400 miles have to teach me.

I can't wait to see you all, and to take an extended tour of visits as soon as I get home in early to mid October. I plan on doing a lot of couch surfing for about a month, so let me know if you have room for a wandering hiker!

Happy trails,
Rob
Bigby

White Mountain Bound

Rob has crossed his next-to-last state line - arriving in Hanover NH yesterday (Sept. 2.) He has gone ahead of some of his hiking buddies and is hiking long days to make it to the White Mountains for Friday morning, when Dad K will once again take a hike! Dave will be loaded with cold weather supplies and food for the gorgeous 50 mile ridge walk in the Whites. He'll travel to Pinkham Notch on Thursday evening and stay at the Joe Dodge Lodge next to the visitor center at the foot of Mt. Washington. Friday morning he'll take the hiker shuttle over to the Liberty Springs trailhead in Franconia, and walk back to Pinkham Notch via the scenic route with "Bigby". We'll post photos when Dave returns!

Rob passes through home territory!

Here are some photos documenting Rob's approach to New England.

August 6 - New York. 793 miles to Katahdin, and the approach to the "Lemon Squeezer" shown on bottom sign. Here's Grizzle getting the squeeze.
August 10, still New York. Jake and Candy Bar pose by the largest tree on the Trail - the "Dover Oak."
August 12 - Happy Day! Rob ("BigBy") poses by a special tree - with the sign marking the Connecticut border.

The Connecticut AT features the Trail's longest river walk, along the lovely Housatonic.
Tater and Candy Bar (above) and Bigby and Candy Bar (below), enjoying the Housatonic on Aug. 13.

A beautiful Connecticut sunset.

August 15 brought them to one of the places that triggered Rob's love of the outdoors - site of many Boy Scout campouts! Here's Rob at a familiar spot - Bear Mountain, CT.
Aug. 15 - Welcome to Massachusetts!
A view of Connecticut.

Last week, friends Mark and Di Orenstein offered their hospitality at their wonderful summer home on Otis Reservoir in the Berkshires. The hikers were quick to accept! This was also the perfect opportunity for Rob's sister Annie to get a taste of the Trail

August 15 - Annie hits the trail! DadK and MomK delivered her to Bear Mountain State Park, where the Trail (and a shelter) are very close to the "road." We entered the park from the Turnpike exit (north) and our route included a near-perfect circle marked on the GPS, as we took the truck down what we thought was the right road to the trail crossing. When the trail became a cowpath, complete with giant potholes, we turned around, and traveled all the way down to the south entrance of the park, and followed directions UP to the trailhead. Turns out we were about a quarter mile away when we rejected the cowpath route!

Annie spent the night at a shelter, and hiked out to the next trail crossing on the morning of Aug. 16. There Dad K met them again, to bring them all to the Orenstein's home.

The truck cab was a little crowded, so Jake chose to ride in style!

Here Tater performs some earthmoving chores at the beach.
Supper at the Orensteins!
Kneeling: Tater, Jake, Bigby; Standing: Annie, Chele Orenstein, Mark and Di Orenstein, Candy Bar, Grizzle and Dad K. (AKA "Mr. Bigby")
A thousand thank yous to the Orenstein family, and to their friend Pete who helped shuttle the hikers back to the Trail after their Otis interlude.