by the way:
http://www.trailjournals.com/photos.cfm?id=212271&back=1
Check out this picture of the Pain Train (a little old, from the Georgia/North Carolina border... almost TWO HUNDRED miles ago!!!)
Left to Right:
Sideshow, Big Shanty, Bigby (me), Little Spoon, and ByteCode
Thursday, April 26, 2007
HELLO MY FRIENDS!
This greeting is coming to you from the excellently stocked Bluff Mountain Outfitter in Hot Springs, North Carolina. Hot Springs is one of the legendary great Trail Towns, and I can already see why! I have a few gaps to fill in between my last legit entry and now, so I will do my best to start at the beginning and not skip (too) much.
First of all... Great Smoky Mountains National Park was utterly spectacular. Anyone who has not been there must make it a point to visit the many miles of beautifully maintained trail that snake through its woods and over its incredible ridgelines. We spent about 5 days in the Smokies, and fortune saw it fit to reward us for our shivering nights with 5 consecutive BEAUTIFUL days. It is not quite spring in the mountains, but the rhodedendrons and trees were just starting to bud. We have started to hit our groove in terms of actual HIKING, the blisters are healing and our muscles are slowly forgiving us for the torment we are putting them through.
This reprieve from physical agony has freed us to make miles with smiles on our faces (for the most part). The Smokies were a constant barrage of incredible views and strenuous climbs. By far the best day was the 4th, when we swung a meager 13 miles along a very easy stretch of ridgeline, stopping frequently to catnap in the sun and enjoy the views.
The only downsides to this paradise...
1) We share the trail with horses. Horses that sneak up on you in packs, failing to warn you that they are coming up until they are RIGHT on top of you. Horses that produce a COLOSSAL amount of horse poo for us to walk around.
2) Daytrippers. Because of the record-high concentration of black bears, we are not allowed to camp wherever we want. Instead we have to stick to the great system of shelters throughout the park. The only downside is that if a daytripper shows up at any hour of the night and needs a slot in a full shelter, we thru-hikers are obligated to give up our spot. This fun little rule had me pitching my tent at 8:00 pm (well past bedtime for us) so some 9 year old kid could have my shelter space.
After the Smokeys, we hit Standing Bear Farm hostel, an interesting place that runs its bill entirely on the honor system. We take what we want, keep track, and pay when we leave. We had a blast, giving eachother haircuts with the electric clippers and chatting by the campfire. I wound up with the AT logo shaved into the back of my head, which I wear with pride!
After Standing Bear, it was 3 days through the mountains to Hot Springs. They were largely uneventful, except for us picking up Grizzle as a hiking buddy (and newest member of the Pain Train!) and hiking more with Buffalo Bobby, Blu-dog, Chach and Patches. Also, on a sad note, we lost our good friend and 3 week hiking companion Little Spoon, who had to head home. He rode the shuttle to the trailhead with me on day one, and is a great guy who will be sorely missed.
This AM, we rolled out of camp at 5:00, hit the trail before 6:00, and made it the 13 miles into Hot Springs before 11:30. A big change from the first week, when a 13 mile day was a struggle! We barely beat a big storm that is rolling in, and will be here for a few days for the annual Trailfest, a big party with music, free whitewater rafting, and tons of hikers around.
One more note: We have picked up a (temporary) new friend! A hunting dog puppy, who we lovingly named That Dog, found us about 40-50 miles ago, and has hiked with us since. She has no collar, doesn't bite or bark, and is a sweetheart, a born trail dog. While we will probably have to part with her in town to send her to a good, safe home, she has been a lively and fun companion.
ANNNYWayyy... I think that's about it. Thanks for your continuing messages and comments, they are great! Unfortunately I have had no cell coverage in about 75 miles, so I have been unable to respond/check my messages in a while. Hopefully when I climb out of Hot Springs on Sunday, things will improve.
With that, it's 270 miles down, 1903 miles to Maine on this, Day 26.
As my bud Big Shanty says, Love, Peace, and Bacon grease!
All the best,
Rob
Bigby
This greeting is coming to you from the excellently stocked Bluff Mountain Outfitter in Hot Springs, North Carolina. Hot Springs is one of the legendary great Trail Towns, and I can already see why! I have a few gaps to fill in between my last legit entry and now, so I will do my best to start at the beginning and not skip (too) much.
First of all... Great Smoky Mountains National Park was utterly spectacular. Anyone who has not been there must make it a point to visit the many miles of beautifully maintained trail that snake through its woods and over its incredible ridgelines. We spent about 5 days in the Smokies, and fortune saw it fit to reward us for our shivering nights with 5 consecutive BEAUTIFUL days. It is not quite spring in the mountains, but the rhodedendrons and trees were just starting to bud. We have started to hit our groove in terms of actual HIKING, the blisters are healing and our muscles are slowly forgiving us for the torment we are putting them through.
This reprieve from physical agony has freed us to make miles with smiles on our faces (for the most part). The Smokies were a constant barrage of incredible views and strenuous climbs. By far the best day was the 4th, when we swung a meager 13 miles along a very easy stretch of ridgeline, stopping frequently to catnap in the sun and enjoy the views.
The only downsides to this paradise...
1) We share the trail with horses. Horses that sneak up on you in packs, failing to warn you that they are coming up until they are RIGHT on top of you. Horses that produce a COLOSSAL amount of horse poo for us to walk around.
2) Daytrippers. Because of the record-high concentration of black bears, we are not allowed to camp wherever we want. Instead we have to stick to the great system of shelters throughout the park. The only downside is that if a daytripper shows up at any hour of the night and needs a slot in a full shelter, we thru-hikers are obligated to give up our spot. This fun little rule had me pitching my tent at 8:00 pm (well past bedtime for us) so some 9 year old kid could have my shelter space.
After the Smokeys, we hit Standing Bear Farm hostel, an interesting place that runs its bill entirely on the honor system. We take what we want, keep track, and pay when we leave. We had a blast, giving eachother haircuts with the electric clippers and chatting by the campfire. I wound up with the AT logo shaved into the back of my head, which I wear with pride!
After Standing Bear, it was 3 days through the mountains to Hot Springs. They were largely uneventful, except for us picking up Grizzle as a hiking buddy (and newest member of the Pain Train!) and hiking more with Buffalo Bobby, Blu-dog, Chach and Patches. Also, on a sad note, we lost our good friend and 3 week hiking companion Little Spoon, who had to head home. He rode the shuttle to the trailhead with me on day one, and is a great guy who will be sorely missed.
This AM, we rolled out of camp at 5:00, hit the trail before 6:00, and made it the 13 miles into Hot Springs before 11:30. A big change from the first week, when a 13 mile day was a struggle! We barely beat a big storm that is rolling in, and will be here for a few days for the annual Trailfest, a big party with music, free whitewater rafting, and tons of hikers around.
One more note: We have picked up a (temporary) new friend! A hunting dog puppy, who we lovingly named That Dog, found us about 40-50 miles ago, and has hiked with us since. She has no collar, doesn't bite or bark, and is a sweetheart, a born trail dog. While we will probably have to part with her in town to send her to a good, safe home, she has been a lively and fun companion.
ANNNYWayyy... I think that's about it. Thanks for your continuing messages and comments, they are great! Unfortunately I have had no cell coverage in about 75 miles, so I have been unable to respond/check my messages in a while. Hopefully when I climb out of Hot Springs on Sunday, things will improve.
With that, it's 270 miles down, 1903 miles to Maine on this, Day 26.
As my bud Big Shanty says, Love, Peace, and Bacon grease!
All the best,
Rob
Bigby
Monday, April 23, 2007
Hello All!
Made Standing Bear Farm today, a hiker hostel right outside of Davenport Gap. Long story short... the Pain Train is out of Great Smoky Mountain National Park after a lightning-quick (ish) 4.5 days! Our mileages: 15,15,15,13,17. Today was closer to 19 really, and boy I felt it!
Anyway, Internet here is slow and unreliable so I will post this. Expect more from Hot Springs, North Carolina, in 2-3 days.
Rob
Bigby
Made Standing Bear Farm today, a hiker hostel right outside of Davenport Gap. Long story short... the Pain Train is out of Great Smoky Mountain National Park after a lightning-quick (ish) 4.5 days! Our mileages: 15,15,15,13,17. Today was closer to 19 really, and boy I felt it!
Anyway, Internet here is slow and unreliable so I will post this. Expect more from Hot Springs, North Carolina, in 2-3 days.
Rob
Bigby
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Clingman's Dome
Rob "Bigby" called at around 10 and left the message that they had just peaked Clingman's Dome, at 6643feet the highest point on the AT! Rob's message: "It's beautiful, it's an awesome day and the hike was just awesome - so great!" He's feeling good and heading another 10 miles to tonight's shelter, after spending last night (Friday) at Silers Bald Shelter. The shelters in Great Smoky Mountain National Park are impressive (and built to keep hikers separated from bears!) And today, Mom K mailed off his second food drop (to Hot Springs, NC.) I still haven't gotten the hang of these food drops - the box weighed 18 pounds...can't get away from the idea that too much is better than too little!
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
Greetings from Fontana Dam!
Hello friends and family!
Finally have a chance to sit at a computer! I read through my old entries and comments - wow, thanks SO MUCH to Mom for keeping such an awesome blog! The stories sound even cooler coming from her! Thanks to you all for keeping up, your phone messages and comments are such a godsend (special thx to Jared for Red Sox updates, Beccap for random voicemails, and sisters for their love + messages!)
Yesterday was a beast... Me and a buddy (Grizzle) slack-packed 12 miles thanks to Murdock, who delivered our packs to Stacoah gap. After that, we backpacked another 3 to the next shelter (Brown Fork). For whatever reason, this hike TORE UP my knee. My left knee hurt so badly on descents, i could barely walk... i had better luck turning around and descending backwards! Grizzle kept an eye on me... I owe him huge. We met Eagle, a cool old timer who is double yo-yoing, meaning he left Georgia, hiked to Maine, turned around and hiked back to Georgia, and is now hiking BACK to Maine. We camped with some new faces too, namely Trail Dancer and Willy Goat. Trail Dancer gave us a new name for the privy and the activity related to it: "the Groover" and "Grooving". Thanks for that, TD!
On the trail today, Grizz and I busted out a good 12 mile day after our 16 mile scorcher yesterday. Somehow, my knee felt fine! I met two MORE eagles: "Young Eagle" and "Old Eagle", two Eagle scouts. We talked about scouting, and I signed a BSA flag on its way to Katahdin!
Arrived in Fontana Dam, a real tourist trap of a village complete with mini-golf and all. Big Shanty's parents (including his mom "Short Timer" who hiked with us the first week) have looked out for us- when I arrived, we had a cabin rented, complete with food and drink! It was great to reunite with the Pain Train... although it wasn't easy catching em! They hike big miles!
Possibly zeroing tommorow... hate to take so much time off, but very concerned about my unpredictable knee. Then, its off into Great Smoky Mountains National Park! I am VERY excited for this 6 day stretch of BEAUTIFUL (and high-bear concentration!) wilderness.
Thanks again for your comments and messages... They really make my day when I get them! If you haven't already, feel free to drop a voicemail on my phone, I try and check them regularly.
Much love to everyone, and happy trails!
Rob
"Bigby"
Finally have a chance to sit at a computer! I read through my old entries and comments - wow, thanks SO MUCH to Mom for keeping such an awesome blog! The stories sound even cooler coming from her! Thanks to you all for keeping up, your phone messages and comments are such a godsend (special thx to Jared for Red Sox updates, Beccap for random voicemails, and sisters for their love + messages!)
Yesterday was a beast... Me and a buddy (Grizzle) slack-packed 12 miles thanks to Murdock, who delivered our packs to Stacoah gap. After that, we backpacked another 3 to the next shelter (Brown Fork). For whatever reason, this hike TORE UP my knee. My left knee hurt so badly on descents, i could barely walk... i had better luck turning around and descending backwards! Grizzle kept an eye on me... I owe him huge. We met Eagle, a cool old timer who is double yo-yoing, meaning he left Georgia, hiked to Maine, turned around and hiked back to Georgia, and is now hiking BACK to Maine. We camped with some new faces too, namely Trail Dancer and Willy Goat. Trail Dancer gave us a new name for the privy and the activity related to it: "the Groover" and "Grooving". Thanks for that, TD!
On the trail today, Grizz and I busted out a good 12 mile day after our 16 mile scorcher yesterday. Somehow, my knee felt fine! I met two MORE eagles: "Young Eagle" and "Old Eagle", two Eagle scouts. We talked about scouting, and I signed a BSA flag on its way to Katahdin!
Arrived in Fontana Dam, a real tourist trap of a village complete with mini-golf and all. Big Shanty's parents (including his mom "Short Timer" who hiked with us the first week) have looked out for us- when I arrived, we had a cabin rented, complete with food and drink! It was great to reunite with the Pain Train... although it wasn't easy catching em! They hike big miles!
Possibly zeroing tommorow... hate to take so much time off, but very concerned about my unpredictable knee. Then, its off into Great Smoky Mountains National Park! I am VERY excited for this 6 day stretch of BEAUTIFUL (and high-bear concentration!) wilderness.
Thanks again for your comments and messages... They really make my day when I get them! If you haven't already, feel free to drop a voicemail on my phone, I try and check them regularly.
Much love to everyone, and happy trails!
Rob
"Bigby"
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Week 2 ends w/ bad weather, tired feet, and the help of friends
"Bigby" and friends made it down the steep descent into Nantahala Outdoor Center yesterday (Saturday) ahead of the N'oreaster that we're now feeling in Connecticut. Spent last night in a cabin at NOC, having had a chance to do laundry and get a good meal. The Five Guys helped out some late-arrivals who came down the Trail by headlamp - sharing their cabin and getting some good food into them. Now today, the favor was returned to Rob - as he awoke to really sore feet (week 2 is notorious for blisters, and he is finding that out first hand) and then couldn't find his cell phone. He was feeling pretty bleak as his friends prepared to leave without him - he decided to take a zero today to try and care for his feet (and deal with the lost phone.) But the situation improved dramatically when he was offered lodging at the cabin owned by "Murdock" (section hiker who was finishing up his hike from Springer. After a hitch involving a classic restored Mustang, Rob arrived at Murdock's cabin, and found his phone buried in the pack. Hikers take care of hikers!
Below see Fontana Dam, site of Rob's next post (April 17).
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
16 miles on the "Pain Train"
Today the "Five Guys" were renamed "Pain Train" for the extra effort made to get to town tonight and escape the cold, wet weather! Monday night was spent at Muskrat Creek Shelter, 78.4 miles from Springer. Tuesday: Carter Gap (90.9 miles) and then the 16 mile push to get to Franklin, NC, and the Microtel Suites tonight ($11 apiece.) Rob praises the Georgia shelters and the bear cables. They've been staying warm (though he wakes up a little cold) and the blisters (big ones on the heels) are starting to improve each day. Tomorrow they will do some re-suppling and maybe check out some gear at the local outfitters, then on to Nantahala Outdoor Center, at 131 miles.
Saturday, April 7, 2007
Brrr! First AYCE in Hiawassee
After a night on the trail where the temperature dipped near (in?) the single digits, Rob (Bigby) and companions decided to push hard to hit Hiawassee tonight rather than tomorrow. They are staying in the Hiawassee Inn tonight, and will take a "zero day" tomorrow, staying in the Cloud Nine Hostel. On their way to an All-You-Can-Eat buffet tonight!
Friday, April 6, 2007
Five Guys Burgers & Fries
After a 13 mile day, Rob (Bigby) made it to the Old Cheese Factory site - 54 miles from Springer Mountain. It was COLD last night (22 degrees, and his extra fleece was one of the items sent home to lighten the pack...) But the sleeping bag is "fantastic" and the new pack is "really nice." He is hiking with "Big Shanty" from Georgia, "Bytecode" (formerly "Cargo") from Virginia, and two hikers from Saratoga Springs - "Little Spoon" and "Mousewheel". They are "Five Guys, Burgers and Fries" - named for the D.C. burger chain whose meals they dream of consuming! They should get to Hiawasee (town!) in about two days.
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
A thunderstorm, the demise of a pack, and maybe a trail name
Rob's first trip to the Smokies, 1996
Day 4 - Wednesday April 4
Rob made it to Walasi-Yi (30 miles from Springer Mt.) this morning. So far he has tented each night, and has stayed dry. He stayed at Stover Creek (about 3 miles from Springer) his first night, then walked alone Monday for 14 miles to Gooch Gap for night #2. Last night was spent at Woods Hole just below the summit of Blood Mountain on 4/3. He was in his tent for a big thunderstrom (3 hours worth) last night! So far he is averaging about 13 miles a day.
This morning, after he and "Buffalo Bobby" summited Blood Mountain and were making the steep descent, Rob slipped - he escaped with a scrape or two, but his beloved external frame pack didn't get off so easy - he lost the hip belt and the top pouch also tore. Rob carried it (and the fifty or so pounds within) down the mountain on his shoulders - fortunately only a two mile hike to Walasi-Yi Center - the fortuitously located backpacking store-hostel-grocery whose claim to fame includes the fact the AT runs right through it! Rob is now the owner of a new Mystery Ranch internal frame pack - and he may just be a convert to this style after all - the pack features a unique "X frame" that allows larger loads than most internal frame packs. And the staff at Walasi-Yi performed their other famous function - helping hikers to lose some weight - by counseling Rob to send home several pounds of stuff. (Among his mistakes - "way too much granola"!) He'll resupply on the route for the next 130 miles, and when he reaches Fontana Dam in the Smokies, there will be a package (too heavy) from home waiting. (No granola.)
He has walked with a physicist from MIT, as well as some new friends including "Cargo" and "Big Shanty". And he has been awarded a tentative trail name himself - "Bigby". We will see if it lasts!
Day 4 - Wednesday April 4
Rob made it to Walasi-Yi (30 miles from Springer Mt.) this morning. So far he has tented each night, and has stayed dry. He stayed at Stover Creek (about 3 miles from Springer) his first night, then walked alone Monday for 14 miles to Gooch Gap for night #2. Last night was spent at Woods Hole just below the summit of Blood Mountain on 4/3. He was in his tent for a big thunderstrom (3 hours worth) last night! So far he is averaging about 13 miles a day.
This morning, after he and "Buffalo Bobby" summited Blood Mountain and were making the steep descent, Rob slipped - he escaped with a scrape or two, but his beloved external frame pack didn't get off so easy - he lost the hip belt and the top pouch also tore. Rob carried it (and the fifty or so pounds within) down the mountain on his shoulders - fortunately only a two mile hike to Walasi-Yi Center - the fortuitously located backpacking store-hostel-grocery whose claim to fame includes the fact the AT runs right through it! Rob is now the owner of a new Mystery Ranch internal frame pack - and he may just be a convert to this style after all - the pack features a unique "X frame" that allows larger loads than most internal frame packs. And the staff at Walasi-Yi performed their other famous function - helping hikers to lose some weight - by counseling Rob to send home several pounds of stuff. (Among his mistakes - "way too much granola"!) He'll resupply on the route for the next 130 miles, and when he reaches Fontana Dam in the Smokies, there will be a package (too heavy) from home waiting. (No granola.)
He has walked with a physicist from MIT, as well as some new friends including "Cargo" and "Big Shanty". And he has been awarded a tentative trail name himself - "Bigby". We will see if it lasts!
Sunday, April 1, 2007
Rob is on his way!
Time for Mom K to keep up the blog for Rob. He took a long train ride yesterday, his leavetaking rendered a little easier for his mom and dad due to the presence of his sister Jess who accompanied him as far as Penn Station in NYC, her home. Our excitement over his trip almost makes up for how much we are going to miss him.
He called at 9 AM from Amicalola State Park, which is "beautiful!" He arrived in Georgia right on time and was able to take a hostel shuttle to the park rather than a taxi. The weather is gray and drizzly, but warm, and he is itching to get started. So rather than spend the night at the lodge in Amicalola, as planned, he is signing his first trip register and starting his trek a day early, April Fool's Day.
Happy trails, Rob!
PS: We heard from Rob at around 2 PM - he had made the 8 mile hike (in the pouring rain by that time) to the top of Springer Mountain and the official beginning of the AT for northbounders.
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