Greetings all!
The moral of this story will come first, just for efficiency's sake: Erwin, Tennessee is impossible to escape!
Time for the story: Two days ago, I had spent the night in the Super 8 motel in Erwin and was ready to pull out and hit the trail. The weather was miserable, but our motto out here is "No pain, no rain, no Maine" so I was ready to put some miles down. I glanced at my map and started to walk back to the trailhead, figuring I would hitch most of the distance once I hit a major road.
This little stroll quickly evolved into 4 miles of roadwalking as I cursed the "Not Drawn to Scale" warning on my town map and the impossibility of getting a hitch down to the Nolichucky river where the trail meets the town. Just then, salvation! A phone call from Grizzle, Chach and Sideshow saying they had arrived in town and were staying with Joe D, a family friend of Sideshow's who lived about 20 minutes away in Virginia. I couldn't resist, and they picked me up on the side of the road and off we went!
After a lunch at the amazing Erwin Burrito, we went to Joe D's beautiful 1920s home, where we relaxed, played some Halo (attn AU people: rest assured that I owned) and ate a TON of food, including a monstrous plate of nachos I whipped up.
The next day (yesterday) we went to Miss Janet's, the legendary trail hostel. There we arranged a 20 mile slackpack South from Iron Mountain Gap back into town, meaning we would spend ANOTHER night in this vortex of a town! The hike took longer than we expected, about 8 hours. We got to hike with Miss Janet's dog, Thabian, who is the best trail dog I have ever met. He stuck with us, waiting when we stopped and finding the trail for us in odd places.
Last night a few friends of Grizzle's came to visit, and we had dinner and hung out for a while with them before heading back to Miss Janet's to sleep. This hostel is amazing... a comfortable home STUFFED with hikers who all pitch in to help things run smoothly, and gather around the table for family style meals.
Today we are FINALLY going to escape Erwin (I swear!) and hike out towards Roan Mountain. We should be into Kincora, another legendary trail hostel, in about 4 days, then it's just 3 or 4 days to DAMASCUS VIRGINIA!!!!
Damascus... the promised land! Start of the famed Easy Virginia section, and probably the most famous of the trail towns, site of the annual Trail Days celebration (which we will be hitching back for in grand fashion!) Also, where I am swapping my tent for my Hennessy Hammock, and my heavy synthetic 15* bag for a light, compressible 25* down sleeping bag. I will drop about 7 lbs from my pack, and life will be GOOD!
A final note: Every morning at Miss Janet's all the hikers discuss a question over breakfast. Today we were talking about what places we wish we had stopped longer along the trail and enjoyed. Turns out everyone has a handful of places that they were in too much of a rush to stop and appreciate, myself DEFINITELY included. I am going to try to leverage this lesson into a new philosophy on this hike... taking every opportunity to enjoy the spectacular places and people I am walking among.
Missing you all a lot, can't wait to hike my way up North and be closer to all of you!
Love,
Rob
Bigby
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Thursday, May 3, 2007
Hello Friends!!!
First of all, the spacebar onthis computer does not work very well.
I am currently in lovely Erwin, TN, at the Super 8 motel w/ ByteCode + Churchmouse.
Sadly, the Pain Train has largely spread out: ByteCode plans to slackpack 30 or so miles ahead of me tommorow, Sideshow and Grizzle are a ways behind me (about 1 day), and Big Shanty is still in Hot Springs nursing his ankle. We are all hoping for a speedy and full recovery for him, and a quick return to the trail.
Wow, huge thanks to Mom for doing such great updates! So cool to see my pictures!
Night hiking was incredible, the full moon gave me enough light to do some miles with Blaze, Brisk, and Tater. We hiked under the stars in a big open field, and rose to the sunrise. The next day (yesterday) I pounded out 17 miles largely alone, struggling in the afternoon heat. That left only 6 into Erwin this AM, which I sprinted in about 2 miles.
Now we are in town, dodging yet ANOTHER rain storm.
Time to go snag a legendary Erwin burrito!
Much love
Rob
Bigby
First of all, the spacebar onthis computer does not work very well.
I am currently in lovely Erwin, TN, at the Super 8 motel w/ ByteCode + Churchmouse.
Sadly, the Pain Train has largely spread out: ByteCode plans to slackpack 30 or so miles ahead of me tommorow, Sideshow and Grizzle are a ways behind me (about 1 day), and Big Shanty is still in Hot Springs nursing his ankle. We are all hoping for a speedy and full recovery for him, and a quick return to the trail.
Wow, huge thanks to Mom for doing such great updates! So cool to see my pictures!
Night hiking was incredible, the full moon gave me enough light to do some miles with Blaze, Brisk, and Tater. We hiked under the stars in a big open field, and rose to the sunrise. The next day (yesterday) I pounded out 17 miles largely alone, struggling in the afternoon heat. That left only 6 into Erwin this AM, which I sprinted in about 2 miles.
Now we are in town, dodging yet ANOTHER rain storm.
Time to go snag a legendary Erwin burrito!
Much love
Rob
Bigby
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
One month, over 300 miles, and 400 photos!
Rob (BigBy) called last night to say he was about a day's hike to Erwin, TN, and was about to take advantage of a full moon and do some night-hiking! Weather has been very warm. We received his first set of pictures and movies. Take a look!
Sunday, April 1, 2007.
Starting out - this is the approach trail to the summit of Springer Mountain, Amicalola State Park.
Eight miles later, atop Springer Mountain, and the thru-hike begins! This is the southern terminus of the AT, and the starting point for "NoBos" (North-bounders) heading for Maine.
The AT goes right through the Walasi-Yi Center, where Rob had to purchase a new pack.
Here is the pack! Turns out the new internal frame pack is super - making it easier to say good-bye to his beloved old external frame monster.
Hiawasee, GA, is the first "Trail Town" and welcomes AT hikers!
The "Pain Train" at the Georgia - North Carolina border.
Rob loved the Smokies. Here he is at the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
Gotta keep those Smoky-bears out of the shelter! Hard to see - but the entire front of the shelter is covered top to bottom with chain-link fence. (The bears go to the hiker-zoo at night!)
Here's a favorite scene - Rob "BigBy" atop Charlie's Bunion, Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
Rob's new 'do...
and the inspiration for it!
+heading+out+of+Hot+Springs+4.29.jpg)
Rob spent the past weekend at "Trail Fest" in Hot Springs, NC. Here he is with "BigShanty" (AKA Tyler) - Rob "BigBy" about to head out from Hot Springs early Sunday morning, April 29. Tyler's Mom and Dad "Momma and Poppa Train" (Lori and Steve) supplied this picture. Now MomK has her own virtual trail buddies! Lori and Steve come from Virginia, and have met up with the "Pain Train" at a few places, including Trail Fest. (And Lori even started the trail with her son - backpacking the first four days!) They were kind enough to contact me and let me know that my son is traveling with a good group of people! Trail magic comes in many forms.
Sunday, April 1, 2007.Starting out - this is the approach trail to the summit of Springer Mountain, Amicalola State Park.
Eight miles later, atop Springer Mountain, and the thru-hike begins! This is the southern terminus of the AT, and the starting point for "NoBos" (North-bounders) heading for Maine. 
The AT goes right through the Walasi-Yi Center, where Rob had to purchase a new pack.
Here is the pack! Turns out the new internal frame pack is super - making it easier to say good-bye to his beloved old external frame monster.
Hiawasee, GA, is the first "Trail Town" and welcomes AT hikers!
The "Pain Train" at the Georgia - North Carolina border.
Rob loved the Smokies. Here he is at the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
Gotta keep those Smoky-bears out of the shelter! Hard to see - but the entire front of the shelter is covered top to bottom with chain-link fence. (The bears go to the hiker-zoo at night!)
Here's a favorite scene - Rob "BigBy" atop Charlie's Bunion, Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
Rob's new 'do...
and the inspiration for it!
+heading+out+of+Hot+Springs+4.29.jpg)
Rob spent the past weekend at "Trail Fest" in Hot Springs, NC. Here he is with "BigShanty" (AKA Tyler) - Rob "BigBy" about to head out from Hot Springs early Sunday morning, April 29. Tyler's Mom and Dad "Momma and Poppa Train" (Lori and Steve) supplied this picture. Now MomK has her own virtual trail buddies! Lori and Steve come from Virginia, and have met up with the "Pain Train" at a few places, including Trail Fest. (And Lori even started the trail with her son - backpacking the first four days!) They were kind enough to contact me and let me know that my son is traveling with a good group of people! Trail magic comes in many forms.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
HELLO MY FRIENDS!
This greeting is coming to you from the excellently stocked Bluff Mountain Outfitter in Hot Springs, North Carolina. Hot Springs is one of the legendary great Trail Towns, and I can already see why! I have a few gaps to fill in between my last legit entry and now, so I will do my best to start at the beginning and not skip (too) much.
First of all... Great Smoky Mountains National Park was utterly spectacular. Anyone who has not been there must make it a point to visit the many miles of beautifully maintained trail that snake through its woods and over its incredible ridgelines. We spent about 5 days in the Smokies, and fortune saw it fit to reward us for our shivering nights with 5 consecutive BEAUTIFUL days. It is not quite spring in the mountains, but the rhodedendrons and trees were just starting to bud. We have started to hit our groove in terms of actual HIKING, the blisters are healing and our muscles are slowly forgiving us for the torment we are putting them through.
This reprieve from physical agony has freed us to make miles with smiles on our faces (for the most part). The Smokies were a constant barrage of incredible views and strenuous climbs. By far the best day was the 4th, when we swung a meager 13 miles along a very easy stretch of ridgeline, stopping frequently to catnap in the sun and enjoy the views.
The only downsides to this paradise...
1) We share the trail with horses. Horses that sneak up on you in packs, failing to warn you that they are coming up until they are RIGHT on top of you. Horses that produce a COLOSSAL amount of horse poo for us to walk around.
2) Daytrippers. Because of the record-high concentration of black bears, we are not allowed to camp wherever we want. Instead we have to stick to the great system of shelters throughout the park. The only downside is that if a daytripper shows up at any hour of the night and needs a slot in a full shelter, we thru-hikers are obligated to give up our spot. This fun little rule had me pitching my tent at 8:00 pm (well past bedtime for us) so some 9 year old kid could have my shelter space.
After the Smokeys, we hit Standing Bear Farm hostel, an interesting place that runs its bill entirely on the honor system. We take what we want, keep track, and pay when we leave. We had a blast, giving eachother haircuts with the electric clippers and chatting by the campfire. I wound up with the AT logo shaved into the back of my head, which I wear with pride!
After Standing Bear, it was 3 days through the mountains to Hot Springs. They were largely uneventful, except for us picking up Grizzle as a hiking buddy (and newest member of the Pain Train!) and hiking more with Buffalo Bobby, Blu-dog, Chach and Patches. Also, on a sad note, we lost our good friend and 3 week hiking companion Little Spoon, who had to head home. He rode the shuttle to the trailhead with me on day one, and is a great guy who will be sorely missed.
This AM, we rolled out of camp at 5:00, hit the trail before 6:00, and made it the 13 miles into Hot Springs before 11:30. A big change from the first week, when a 13 mile day was a struggle! We barely beat a big storm that is rolling in, and will be here for a few days for the annual Trailfest, a big party with music, free whitewater rafting, and tons of hikers around.
One more note: We have picked up a (temporary) new friend! A hunting dog puppy, who we lovingly named That Dog, found us about 40-50 miles ago, and has hiked with us since. She has no collar, doesn't bite or bark, and is a sweetheart, a born trail dog. While we will probably have to part with her in town to send her to a good, safe home, she has been a lively and fun companion.
ANNNYWayyy... I think that's about it. Thanks for your continuing messages and comments, they are great! Unfortunately I have had no cell coverage in about 75 miles, so I have been unable to respond/check my messages in a while. Hopefully when I climb out of Hot Springs on Sunday, things will improve.
With that, it's 270 miles down, 1903 miles to Maine on this, Day 26.
As my bud Big Shanty says, Love, Peace, and Bacon grease!
All the best,
Rob
Bigby
This greeting is coming to you from the excellently stocked Bluff Mountain Outfitter in Hot Springs, North Carolina. Hot Springs is one of the legendary great Trail Towns, and I can already see why! I have a few gaps to fill in between my last legit entry and now, so I will do my best to start at the beginning and not skip (too) much.
First of all... Great Smoky Mountains National Park was utterly spectacular. Anyone who has not been there must make it a point to visit the many miles of beautifully maintained trail that snake through its woods and over its incredible ridgelines. We spent about 5 days in the Smokies, and fortune saw it fit to reward us for our shivering nights with 5 consecutive BEAUTIFUL days. It is not quite spring in the mountains, but the rhodedendrons and trees were just starting to bud. We have started to hit our groove in terms of actual HIKING, the blisters are healing and our muscles are slowly forgiving us for the torment we are putting them through.
This reprieve from physical agony has freed us to make miles with smiles on our faces (for the most part). The Smokies were a constant barrage of incredible views and strenuous climbs. By far the best day was the 4th, when we swung a meager 13 miles along a very easy stretch of ridgeline, stopping frequently to catnap in the sun and enjoy the views.
The only downsides to this paradise...
1) We share the trail with horses. Horses that sneak up on you in packs, failing to warn you that they are coming up until they are RIGHT on top of you. Horses that produce a COLOSSAL amount of horse poo for us to walk around.
2) Daytrippers. Because of the record-high concentration of black bears, we are not allowed to camp wherever we want. Instead we have to stick to the great system of shelters throughout the park. The only downside is that if a daytripper shows up at any hour of the night and needs a slot in a full shelter, we thru-hikers are obligated to give up our spot. This fun little rule had me pitching my tent at 8:00 pm (well past bedtime for us) so some 9 year old kid could have my shelter space.
After the Smokeys, we hit Standing Bear Farm hostel, an interesting place that runs its bill entirely on the honor system. We take what we want, keep track, and pay when we leave. We had a blast, giving eachother haircuts with the electric clippers and chatting by the campfire. I wound up with the AT logo shaved into the back of my head, which I wear with pride!
After Standing Bear, it was 3 days through the mountains to Hot Springs. They were largely uneventful, except for us picking up Grizzle as a hiking buddy (and newest member of the Pain Train!) and hiking more with Buffalo Bobby, Blu-dog, Chach and Patches. Also, on a sad note, we lost our good friend and 3 week hiking companion Little Spoon, who had to head home. He rode the shuttle to the trailhead with me on day one, and is a great guy who will be sorely missed.
This AM, we rolled out of camp at 5:00, hit the trail before 6:00, and made it the 13 miles into Hot Springs before 11:30. A big change from the first week, when a 13 mile day was a struggle! We barely beat a big storm that is rolling in, and will be here for a few days for the annual Trailfest, a big party with music, free whitewater rafting, and tons of hikers around.
One more note: We have picked up a (temporary) new friend! A hunting dog puppy, who we lovingly named That Dog, found us about 40-50 miles ago, and has hiked with us since. She has no collar, doesn't bite or bark, and is a sweetheart, a born trail dog. While we will probably have to part with her in town to send her to a good, safe home, she has been a lively and fun companion.
ANNNYWayyy... I think that's about it. Thanks for your continuing messages and comments, they are great! Unfortunately I have had no cell coverage in about 75 miles, so I have been unable to respond/check my messages in a while. Hopefully when I climb out of Hot Springs on Sunday, things will improve.
With that, it's 270 miles down, 1903 miles to Maine on this, Day 26.
As my bud Big Shanty says, Love, Peace, and Bacon grease!
All the best,
Rob
Bigby
Monday, April 23, 2007
Hello All!
Made Standing Bear Farm today, a hiker hostel right outside of Davenport Gap. Long story short... the Pain Train is out of Great Smoky Mountain National Park after a lightning-quick (ish) 4.5 days! Our mileages: 15,15,15,13,17. Today was closer to 19 really, and boy I felt it!
Anyway, Internet here is slow and unreliable so I will post this. Expect more from Hot Springs, North Carolina, in 2-3 days.
Rob
Bigby
Made Standing Bear Farm today, a hiker hostel right outside of Davenport Gap. Long story short... the Pain Train is out of Great Smoky Mountain National Park after a lightning-quick (ish) 4.5 days! Our mileages: 15,15,15,13,17. Today was closer to 19 really, and boy I felt it!
Anyway, Internet here is slow and unreliable so I will post this. Expect more from Hot Springs, North Carolina, in 2-3 days.
Rob
Bigby
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Clingman's Dome
Rob "Bigby" called at around 10 and left the message that they had just peaked Clingman's Dome, at 6643feet the highest point on the AT! Rob's message: "It's beautiful, it's an awesome day and the hike was just awesome - so great!" He's feeling good and heading another 10 miles to tonight's shelter, after spending last night (Friday) at Silers Bald Shelter. The shelters in Great Smoky Mountain National Park are impressive (and built to keep hikers separated from bears!) And today, Mom K mailed off his second food drop (to Hot Springs, NC.) I still haven't gotten the hang of these food drops - the box weighed 18 pounds...can't get away from the idea that too much is better than too little!
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